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Kate Turkington's search ends after 50 years…

  • February 11, 2022 | Rhulani Safari Lodge

Let's review the unique Pangolin sighting that we were able to experience a few days ago, from the point of view of our guest, with the title. "Sighting of a lifetime: Kate Turkington's search ends after 50 years…"

written by Kate Turkington, Photos by Tara Turkington

A dear little pointy face emerged, small with shining eyes, almost like a character from a Beatrix Potter children’s book. 

‘Stop!’ shouts Tara. ‘A pangolin!’

Sptted hyena very close to the vehicle

Baby elephants can’t use their trunks until they are almost a year old so have to get down on their knees to drink from the water holes and dams.

The sun is just beginning to set before another spectacular African sunset

We encountered lions, strolling majestically past our vehicle, so close I could have touched their manes. 

It’s six o’clock in the bush. The sun is just beginning to set before another spectacular African sunset and daughter, Tara, grandson, Nicholas, and I are driving with ranger Daniel in an open game vehicle along a deserted road in Madikwe Game Reserve in South Africa’s North West province. We are staying at the gorgeous 5-star Rhulani Safari Lodge, one of the most beautiful lodges I have ever visited. Classy, with meticulous attention to detail that anticipates even the most jaded traveller’s needs, it’s a haven of luxury in the middle of the African bush.

But back to 6pm and the setting sun.

‘Stop!’ shouts Tara. ‘A pangolin!’

And there pottering along on the edge of the road is one of the world’s most endangered animals, the one on every knowledgeable safari goer’s bucket list. And on every game ranger’s wish list, too. It’s also, tragically, one of the most trafficked animals in the world because it’s wrongly believed that its scales are not only an aphrodisiac, but that any part of it can cure deadly diseases. 

As a travel writer and author of travel guides I have been fortunate enough to have been on safari at dozens of sub-Saharan safari destinations, but had never before encountered this strangely beautiful animal. And finally, here it was. 

She (I’m certain it was a ‘she’) rolled herself into a ball as we approached, her defence mechanism against predators whether human or animal. After a short while, obviously feeling comfortable, she uncoiled herself and walked into the long grass where she rested, trembling slightly, her scallop-edged, seashell-like scales glinting in the evening sun.

A dear little pointy face emerged, small with shining eyes, almost like a character from a Beatrix Potter children’s book. 

We stood in awe, my half-century of searching finally over. It’s not that I had consciously searched for all those years, but this almost mythical creature is The Holy Grail of the African bush. Just to be in the wilderness is a privilege and whether one spots a lion pride, a sought-after rhino, a ‘journey’ of giraffes, a hyena, a bush baby or any one of South Africa’s hundreds of bird species, the wonder of the experience of just ‘being there’ never palls. Always expect the unexpected.

And there she was.

Oh yes, we encountered lions, strolling majestically past our vehicle, so close I could have touched their manes. And yes, we saw cheetahs dozing in the grass before their morning hunt.  And a lone hyena on the prowl.  And elephants galore. Baby elephants can’t use their trunks until they are almost a year old so have to get down on their knees to drink from the water holes and dams. We watched one tiny baby, maybe just a few weeks old, slurping water thirstily and noisily into its mouth.

“He wouldn’t be able to have tea with the Queen,’ remarked Sam, my 10-year-old grandson, when he saw the pictures. 

Bring your sense of wonder to Rhulani. Enjoy the gracious hospitality, the great food, the exciting game drives, and the magic of the African bush.

And who knows? You might not have to wait 50 years like I did. You might…might…just see a pangolin.

Kate, Sam and Tara Turkington on safari with Rhulani Safari Lodge